Germany: Part II

Ten years ago I came to Berlin at the age of sixteen. I saw some things and learned some things and was surprised by some things, but I didn't realize until we were back in the city for a couple days last week how much went over my head the first time around. What really surprised me, though, is how I could have possibly managed to miss it.

The history in the city envelopes you the moment you step off the train. It's in the street art and graffiti, it's in the memorials that are all over the place, and it's in the architecture that switches, noticeably, as you cross from the former east to the former west in this now rejoined city. I'd guess that most anyone reading this knows that my family hosted some exchange students when I was in high school, a couple of which we have been visiting and staying with these last couple weeks. Talking to them brought Berlin alive even further, hearing the stories of first trips from the GDR into West Germany with people throwing the East-scarce bananas and oranges into the car windows as a welcome. That's the kind of feeling Berlin has; it's the kind of place that is still adjusting and changing after an obliviously complex and ridiculous century.

We took a free walking tour on our first day into the city. This was great for getting an overview look at a lot of the more known and anticipated sites in the city, but it was a bit overwhelming and we found ourselves on the train back to Potsdam trying to think of how best to tackle a second day. Answer: a little research goes a long way, yielding us a Wednesday filled with a lot of great art at Tacheles, the best design book collection I've ever seen in one place, a little memorial museum to a man named Otto Weidt and a sense of seeing at least a little slice of the actual Berlin that people live and work and play in.

Post Berlin, it has been back to reconnecting with some of those amazing exchange student friends who have spent the last couple weeks helping, hosting and spending time with us. In Magdeburg with Carla and Sebastian, I went wakebording for the first time (behind a cable, not a boat - another new curiosity that a quick Google search reveals does actually exist in the States). Those are my pasty gams strapping in, captured so nicely by Casey's photo below. What she didn't manage to capture is the sore muscles that still haven't entirely departed a week later, though it was most definitely worth it.

And here are the best game faces Casey and Robert had yesterday at the Kletterpark in Plau, where we all balanced, swung, and held on for our lives through an obstacle park in the trees.

We helped build a baby crib for one of my exchange sibling's impending parenthood last weekend and I carried the toddler son of another on my shoulders this week while we were wandering around Plau. I guess that's the kind of change that can happen in ten years - the same amount of time between when the wall fell and when I met these friends. I don't mean to get all serious or lecture whoever might be reading this on historical happenings. I think I just keep coming back to it all because I am still trying to wrap my own head around it. Tomorrow we will head back to Berlin for a couple more days before venturing on into Poland, and I look forward to taking one more look at the city - to hopefully understand all of the layers and parts it has a little more and a little better. We'll try to cover some of the specifics we may have breezed over here once we get to the German highlights.

We owe a huge thanks to Peter, Carla, Sebastian, Robert, Sara, Michael, Christine, Helke, Wolfgang and Christoph for all they've helped us with (not the least of which is building up a tiny little random understanding of the German language) these few weeks. We look forward to figuring out a way for it to not be ten more years until we see them all again.

Location:Gerwischer Straße,Magdeburg,Germany

Germany: Part I

Oh boy. Where to begin. We've been in Germany since June 28th and have gotten behind in our posting due to a few factors: lack of internet, uncertainty deciding which stories to post, and most of all actually, you know...doing stuff. So. A round up. We took three trains to our funky purple and yellow room in a pensioners hotel (cheaper, it is worth noting, than a dorm room in a hostel) in the St. Georg neighborhood of Hamburg. We had only planned it as a one night stopover but in retrospect could have spent awhile longer. The street we were on was chockablock with bakeries, cool little shops, sidewalk cafes and, of course, a great little grocery store. After a much needed dinner, we discovered one of the better ice cream flavors either of us has had in awhile, though unfortunately we've had a hard time figuring out what it actually is: Waldmeister. Green, dry, floral, a little tangy...completely refreshing.

Onward! Three more trains brought us to the small town of Perleberg the following morning, where we boarded a bus for the tiny village (pop. 76) of Tangendorf, our second workstay. The stay would prove entirely different from our time working in Scotland, the focus here being not on farming, but on turning a collection of old farm buildings into an arts workshop and residency space. Given that it is still in the beginning stages of this transformation, much of what we worked on included things like clearing out an area for woodworking and machine work, taking down a wall (made of field boulders the size of a GDR Trabi) that was to be eventually rebuilt, perfecting our non-existent masonry skills, killing flies, and installing a new (and perfectly level, *ahem*) crossbeam for a future cottage room.

Since the space was formerly an operating farm in East Germany, there was a plethora of odd bits and rusted thingamajigs hidden about the place that our host, a mixed media artist, used frequently in his assemblage work. While cleaning out the woodshop, we, with our new Aussie friend/coworker Brendan, found ourselves amused at how often one of us would hold up a new item and exclaim amazement, question it's origins or just laugh at it.

Speaking of new friends, there was a large collection of volunteers staying here; some since before us and some that rolled in as we were gearing up to head out. Sadly, we didn't get to practice our German much here, but we were able to brush up on our Australian and British accents. Naturally, one of the volunteers, Kerk, was a native of Beverly, MA (a Boston suburb). He brought himself, his banjo and a lute from Morocco and provided nightly entertainment that you can hear here.

We also want to give a shout to Brendan and Merrisa from Brisbane who are on a similar, if reverse, journey to ours. The were full of positivity, historical tidbits, and general goodness. Here they are...hi guys!

We ended our time in Tangendorf a bit earlier than originally planned thanks to the strange smallness of this world. As a complete coincidence, the town of Pritzwalk is 24km from Tangendorf and happens to be the hometown of Robert, an exchange student and good friend that Eli's family hosted in 1998. We had gone into town to use the internet and make some calls in attempt to connect with Robert, with no luck. Upon arriving back in Tangendorf, we were greeted by his parents waiting for us at the gate. They had heard that we were there and came to whisk us away for a lovely dinner and dependable communication with their son. As broken German and English conversation and ideas bounced around, a new plan for us to visit Potsdam and their vacation home in Plau unfolded. Huzzah for several things: modern technology, surprises, parents everywhere, and the openness to follow what rolls in front of you sometimes!

Thus, after a much needed sunny, swimming and boating filled day on the (third largest)lake(in Germany) with our travel angels, we packed our bags and headed to Potsdam to stay for a bit with Peter, Robert's twin brother and gracious host.

Potsdam. History! History! History! It's a quiet city of just over 150,000 that was built up, destroyed, overtaken, regained, and rebuilt seemingly endlessly over the years and through various wars. In the 1700's, Frederick the Great (also the second) left seemingly the most lasting marks here, covering the town with some beautiful, well kept, and large parks that are interspersed with magnificent sculptures and castles, the largest of which being Park Sansoucci (that's French for "without worries" - somewhat ironically given the opulence, size and location). It was his summer home, but it might be ancient Greece (what with all of the sculptures). Unclear.

On top of all that, we found ourselves in town during Stadt Für Eine Nacht, an arts festival at the culture center in town (which includes the Fluxus museum) that had music, visual art, performance art, food, and everything in between. One of better performance groups either of us has seen doesn't seem to have much presence online but the work was called Timebank by Schirrof and looked kind of like this:

We'll leave you with that - two peeps in suits dangling from an old warehouse and swinging their briefcases to a metronomic click - for part one of our German adventures, as Timebank left us a bit speechless. For Part II: Warte bitte Einen augen blick.

Location:Raiffeisenstraße,Magdeburg,Germany

Supermarkets

I'm not sure how to say this without sounding a bit off in the head, but supermarkets are really fun. Really.

Since we embarked on this adventure two months ago we've covered four countries, seven major/semi-major cities, and some greater number of smaller towns and villages. One of my (our) favorite things to do almost before anything else (though we really should start prioritizing "learning to read the transit tables" as that seems to be somewhat worthwhile) has become wandering through the aisles of whatever grocery store, bodega or farmers market we can find. It's interesting for all of the best reasons: people watching, getting your head around what delightful new oddities each place has to offer and putting together picnics (hello, budget travel!).

People watching is one of my favorite things in the world. Watching people hem and haw over whether to get white or wheat bread, swoop in and nab the last chocolate ice cream, or manically sort through to find only the best apples just heightens the regular people watching suspense. I can't help but feel that I'm probably one of the better characters in this show as I putter back and forth, forlornly trying to decipher the things that don't make themselves obvious (produce is my friend here). In addition, it's fascinating to see where the emphasis is put in a grocery store, and in what ways things are organized. I, for one, would never really think to tuck the potato chip section in next to the cat food, but apparently Waitrose in Glasgow would. It just messes with your head to be looking at sea salt and vinegar chips but smelling kibbles and bits.

The oddities bit is a newer hobby. The intrigue for me here is not only what's inside the packages, but the packages themselves. Design both good and bad, some that would (or do) fit in unnoticeably on an American shelf, others that would stand out like a sore thumb. Orange kiwi juice, a sickly yellowish color with all of the kiwi seeds on the shelf in Holland. Eggs on the dry goods shelf...everywhere but America (including at the dollar store). Soft cheeses in far greater abundance than hard cheeses, which seem to come most often in pre sliced packages of about 6 slices. Most places even tend to have a gluten free section (a fact that pleases Casey) that stocks at least a bread or two, as well as myriad snack like items:

Inserting ourselves into the simple (mostly) worldwide human function of acquiring food (no matter the size or style of the shop or market) puts us under the control of different senses. Beyond the tangle of indecipherable words are the familiarly enticing fruits, the yeasty smells of the bakery, the questionable condiments. While I'm not very good at decision making anyway, it allows me to marvel like a little kid at all of the options - often expressing wonder at something completely mundane to a person who lives nearby. While we certainly aren't the first travelers to do this, it tells us more about what makes a place unique than any of the major attractions ever could.

Location:Gerlachstraße,Potsdam,Germany

Highlights: Amsterdam

Koffiehuis Van Den Volksbond: Ridiculously good food, enjoyed with long lost family and new friends, next to a canal in perfect weather. Highlight!

Amsterdam Public Library: Casey covered this in her last post. Why aren't all libraries designed so logically and so beautifully?

Bazar: Ok. We know it isn't traditional Dutch food and its grandiose size is at odds with the cozy Amsterdam style. However, another friendship reunion and the biggest breakfast schmorgasbord I (eli) have ever had (for 8 euros) made for another delightful afternoon stop.

Vondelpark: Families in Amsterdam seem to really know how to utilize their park time, plus there is an oversized (but very real looking high up) fort for the wee ones. We rode our bikes around and stopped in the octagonal (I think?) rose garden for a little picnic lunch. Yum.

Bike rental: It's really easy to rent bikes here, and very well worth it, even just for a day. Make sure to stay in the bike lane, though (many of them look about the same as a regular traffic lane), and if you need to slow down or stop, just get out of the way. An English couple that we met in Tangendorf, Germany got a great deal from a place called Recycled Bikes and said the guy who runs it was super nice. We will be trying that place next time we are in town.

foam: A great mid-sized photography gallery/museum. While we were there they had a show of work by Anton Corbijn and upcoming photographers from Holland and the US. Completely different, both good.

Brouweri 't IJ: We didn't get a chance to try their brews, sadly, but the brewery itself is housed in the building attached to the highest wooden windmill in Holland (we also read that it is one of the last traditional ones), the deGooyer Windmill. Plus, the pub looked awesomely small and simple - or so it looked from our peering inside longingly at 11am.

Location:Lange Reihe,Hamburg,Germany

Amsterdam

This is my favorite street art yet. Two and three dimensional mixed, with a little reminder of how karma might work.

By some stroke of luck with a healthy amount of magic factored in, we discovered that Eli's second cousin, Judd, and his girlfriend, Elena, live in Amsterdam. Add to that even more magic - they are super, wondrously friendly, kind, and interesting. We had already decided to visit the city when finding this out, and ended up staying with them from Thursday June 23rd until Tuesday the 28th. Happily, the weather was more than generous during this time and decided to give us a really good dose of summery heat and sun. Americanos with shaved ice, breeze from the bicycle rides and a delicious evening dinner outside with good company cured us of the fuzzy brain and sweating.

After becoming accustomed to the continuous mist in Scotland, I'm not sure either of us realized how welcome the sun would be. The general feeling for visiting Amsterdam was fairly laid back for both of us and centered around people watching and exploring without much direction for hours on end. This usually includes a wander around the local supermarket (more to come on this habit-in-progress soon). We found ourselves looking for picnic treats which is, of course, far less spendy than lunches out each day - but also helps us have some quick study time for some of the basics of food in Dutch. In short, it is neither easy nor logical to our English geared brains. Additionally, a large part of the diet seems to consist of a bread product of some kind. A friend, who is living in Rotterdam, commented that it seems that the Dutch are never without a roll, pastry or sandwich of some kind. It is not an exaggeration - the wee pancakes, croissants, and brodjies (pocket sized sandwiches) were offered on almost each corner. Though, finding the 'best' one is a game of conversation and comparative research. Thankfully, Eli was able to order things that I would snip a small taste of - angering the gluten free gods but satisfying the taste buds and the desire to share in culinary customs of all kinds.

Plus, these famed fries (hot chips) were shared equally and totally delicious:

Those of you who share my love of mayo understand. Those on the other side of the fence are probably so grossed out by that photo. The little stand that sells them must make bank and their rent can't be too crazy since it is a hole in the wall:

There is obviously no need to enlighten anyone to the bicycle culture here - it is well documented. Still, we are a little sad to not have any photos of the two-wheeled mini-vans and pick-up truck bikes we saw everywhere. It truly is a whole different understanding of travel altogether. This becomes particularly obvious when you spot a woman cycling in a dress and wedges, checking her cell phone, with a barrel full of groceries and toddlers attached to the front of her bike, breeze past you through cars and people on foot while you awkwardly try to maneuver your rental cruiser to just get rolling. To be fair, the rental I had was not quite the right size.

However, the point is that I have it engrained in my every pore to be on constant guard for pedestrians and wild or inattentive drivers (thanks Boston and Milwaukee!). Unfortunately, this makes me a mildly skittish first time bicyclist in Amsterdam, where it seems folks are born on two wheels and the culture of it is utilitarian to the core. The flat roads help this along tremendously, of course. The idea of lumbering through Boston traffic on an old Dutch cruiser is dreamy and all kinds of stylish, but horribly unrealistic. Eli and I found the clear lack of 'holier than thou' super biker mentality refreshing, but also noticed that we were regarded as slow, in the way, or frustrating at times to the rest of bike traffic if we had even a hiccup in our momentum or questioned which turn to take. I found it best to keep with the current and get the hell out of the way to make any decisions. Regardless, it was encouraging and entertaining - and further fueled our love of the bicycle. Maybe when we settle in somewhere, we will have the flair of this young man and decorate our mobiles with as many lights and roses:

There is also no lack of insanely cool old model cars here. Though I certainly don't know the names, quality, or anything mechanically inclined about them, I have a penchant for the design of most. We loved seeing them tucked into little spaces next to canals or coffeeshops, imagining the characters that might be their drivers. Yes please:

Lastly, if only for the sake of minor alliteration, the library. Designed by Jo Coenen, the building is six stories of crisp, well organized, inviting and playful space. The last two adjectives are most important to me and have been perfectly balanced - I would hang out here a lot if I lived in the city and we even considered going back for a second visit. Sadly, to us, the building is currently eclipsed by some gargantuan construction that detracts from the whole aesthetic experience of seeing it from across the water. That doesn't take away from the inside having nooks full of light installations, comfortable seats everywhere, space age study pods, a children's section that made my childhood jealous, and a cafe and balcony at the top floor (so logical!) with a view of the whole city. It quickly became one of my favorites.

View!

You enter the grey kiosk from the back and there is a table, seat for one and power outlet - childhood (and college) dream fulfilled:

A classy, albeit mildly austere, story time room:

Walls made by a Dutch fiber artist with chartreuse wool all over. I want:

Basically, I'm fairly sure we feel about Amsterdam the way Eli feels about this wall. Four full days of letting things steep, observing people and ourselves, and being gentle about it all. It was around this time that we reached the point of saying 'oh, we are still moving east'. After so much time researching, saving, blogging, doing...our minds always a bit ahead of our feet in this travel process. It seems that we may have aligned ourselves a bit more here - our bodies have finally caught up with our brains and we are moving in unison onwards.

Location:Amsterdam, the Netherlands